We were fortunate enough to be invited to take part in this trip with three other couples from Waldringfield Sailing Club.
We flew from Gatwick to Dubai on Emirates, just short of 8 hours and then about a four hour onward trip to Cochin, Kerala S.W. India where we were met by an excellent driver

James and his minibus, who took us to Koder House in Fort Cochin, the old part of the city where Vasco de Gama landed from Portugal about 500 years ago. James amused us during the fortnight as he was looking for a bride for his brother. In the newspapers there are usually several pages of ”matrimonials”.   A typical suggestion might involve a slightly beautiful Syrian Jacobite Christian aged 24- 27!! James had arranged three prospects for his brother and the first meetings were going to take place shortly! The word “slightly” is no accident, it is required to be understated as well as non boasting! James’s ring tone was well recognised as the brides rang in to see when their interview was likely to be.

Temperature was around 32 to 34C deg, with light airs. Exercise tended to be modest whilst aircon and bottled water were always to be considered. In the afternoon we had a little stroll out to the waterside to see the fish market. The local girls came out of school and all looked beautifully turned out in contrast to their modest homes. In the evening, we were invited to an incredible cultural dancing display, the main feature of which was a chap who was required to be made up extravagantly, as a demon, and this took over 1 hour and every night! Later that evening, we were invited to a reception by local business people at the Casino Hotel. A lovely location with a large pool and fans to keep us cool in the garden, whilst we helped ourselves to a pleasant buffet and good company. Fans in a garden at 10 p.m. was a first for most of us.


17.11.07 I tried to hire a bike from our otherwise excellent hotel, but the saddle oscillated through 30 deg. and the brakes only just touched the rims. I thought I was worth more than that! Their offer was declined. In the evening, we went on a sunset cruise passing boats discharging their catch of sardines, piles of them. The sunset duly took place behind the classic view through the cantilevered Chinese fishing nets, an ancient design imported from China centuries ago.

We then went out to dinner at Brunton’s boatyard. Compatively expensive by Indian standards but rather spectacular.

Night and day noise! Birds, traffic, whistles. Sunday is just as busy as weekdays. The circle on the Indian flag is that of a spinning wheel denoting diligence after independence. Visited the old naval shipyard. The word “India” on the naval cap badge was to be replaced at the time of independence. But what words(s) and how succinct could it be? VARUNA, to guard against inauspicious events was chosen.

18.11.07 set off fairly promptly for a four hour drive eastward to towards the Western Ghatts mountains and the town of Munnar at about 6000ft and a tea plantation at the Windermere Estate where we stay two nights. Stop for a tea break in a fairly modest café! All these villages and towns seem to be teeming with people and traffic. We visit two large dams and echo point and also meet three elephants on the road. Take a cooling beer at the Tea County Hotel. Thus far we have seen rubber and tea plantations in profusion. Rubber drips down into a cup and tea leaves are harvested by many hedge cutters. The tea plantations tend to be located in hilly terrain.

20 and 21.11.07 Four hour trip from Windermere to Periyar Tiger Reserve, after a brief lunch at the Spice Village in time to catch the 2 pm boat round a small part of the huge Tiger reserve declared a reserve in the 1890s. Here, we saw Elephant, Kingfisher, Cormorant, deer and tortoise. Ironically no Tiger seen, nor have they been seen for a month. There are said to be about 40 of them in the reserve. Dramatic landscape with afforested islands and peninsulars. A further 1.5 hours drive and we finish up in a most unlikely place, the “Paradiso”, about 1/3rd of the way back towards to the coast. Down a narrow lane with a 180 deg turn in to an improbable drive. A welcoming party suddenly emerge and there we are looking at a spectacular “hotel”, comprising little bungalows, a swimming pool and a large dining area stuck to a steep cliff face surrounded by tropical fruit trees! A triumph of imagination, persistence and invention. The owner,Simon, is a very charismatic, imaginative fellow who has devoted himself to this project over the last 7 years, when all had declared him as mad. Our bungalow offered us a mosquito net and a large cockroach. The latter was safely despatched. The bathroom had a rather cunning atrium for rain and shower water to fall on to pebbles. Scenic and practical but you need warm weather.

In the late afternoon a party of us set out on a nature trail, during which time we see bananas, cloves, pepper, papaya, avocado, chikoo, pomegranate, coffee, vanilla, cardoman, and palm sugar! We also pass a Jehovahs Witness hall, a nunnery, a monastery and a large church all within about 2 miles! John, our guide, saw a scorpion before any of us and despatched it. I am approached by a nun, whose opening shot was “What is your name?” Much of the church finance is financed from America. But the nunnery were already building a 2nd floor, although they admitted to being substantially in debt. It was a huge building with only about 6 nuns. What do you make of that? The hotel staff left a lovely petal motif on our bed, of “Happy Birthday” for Audrey.

We then drive westward towards Punnamada at the southern end of the Backwaters, just south of Cochin. On the way we see a huge cattle auction, where they are sold and then bound up and loaded pretty closely on to lorries to go away for slaughter. 30 of them per lorry and they are not artics! I take a little stroll out from the Punnamada Hotel and meet a little girl called Handele aged 10 and her little friend Rashid aged 2 from over the lane. Very smiling and very friendly. Meet two ladies by the pool from Coombe Hill Golf club, where Neil Coles was such a successful pro. One has had her husband “stolen”, body and cash, by a Sri Lankan housekeeper and is setting off the next day to Columbo to settle old scores!!

23.11.07 I try out a bike from the hotel, but whilst the tyres are OK and the brakes work, the chain has seldom seen any oil and as a result the squeaking attracts much attention. I carefully monitor the turnings as I reached about 3 - 4kms from the hotel, at which point it was getting too busy and too noisy and too hot. Even in relatively quiet side streets the traffic is relentless all hooting and tooting at every opportunity. Oncoming traffic just turns right across the main flow; no question of waiting to turn right: far too dangerous. At one point I was sandwiched by a bus from behind and a motor bike cutting across in front. Seemingly there is a highway code, but it is routinely avoided on the grounds that it would result in gridlock. However on the way back, I must have missed a vital turning and started to observe unfamiliar landmarks until I reached a canal. I had not been here before. I was just considering what to do next when I was approached by an old boy who announced that he had come down from the mountains yesterday and would I like to buy some of his jewellery? I said I had a more pressing matter of getting back to the hotel, at which point he called in a friend who said he wanted to sell me a house boat! Getting a lift on a passing fishing boat would mean about 1- 2 hours back. However an ever eager auto rickshaw or tuk-tuk appears immediately and bundles the bike and me into his capacious, no doors or windows, tuk tuk! After an unscheduled petrol stop, well actually it was 3 litres of diesel, and it cost 25 p per litre! Back at the hotel a cooling beer in the garden fronting the water and with a sea eagle fishing close by. In the afternoon we take a boat trip round the Backwaters , where we see the modest dwellings, the stone washing, the canoe fishing, kids being ferried to and from school still beautifully dressed. On the way, we stop for a drink of coconut milk. Whilst we are temporarily moored, Audrey’s glasses slip overboard and are recovered by a young boy near the quay side for a reward of 10 rupees. In the evening there was a huge thunderstorm, with sheet lightning and thunder rolling round.

24.11.07 We pack up from Puunamada to board a house boat, the “Love Dale” at about midday for a trip round that Backwaters for about 25 miles until the following morning. We motor in between the rice fields which seem to stretch for miles, and there are little dwellings on thin stretches of land in between the rice fields for the workers. All well fed and clothed. Bright saris and shirts to the fore and some especially for going to church on Sunday morning. Take lunch in the shade of some trees whilst two chaps sidle up to us in their silent canoes to sell us some prawns, but we are nervous about any “fresh” fruit or seafood. As we work our way back towards Punnamada, the properties become noticeably wealthier and more spacious, and with gardens behind as well as a water frontage. Fancy gates become more numerous and cars are become more obvious. There is much laundry in evidence as the women beat their clothes on the flat stones, both forehand and back hand! There are house boats a plenty all built with coconut leaves and palm leaves but with no nails, only pegs and lashings. The boat yards seem full and busy as the tourist business continues to be active. There is a constant stream of activity with fishing, washing and canoeing . By 7.00hrs people are walking along the tow paths, and even by 7.30 whole families are paddling their way up and down the “canals”. We share our boat with John and Gillian Shambrook. Most people seem very happy with their constant smiles.

25.11.07 Early morng tea is called bed tea, and one needs to specify either black tea with milk or mixed tea i.e. already white! Breakfast on board the “Love Dale” with a typical thin omelette. Arrive back at Punnamada at about 09.00 hrs and then James drives us to Aluppey and the Raheem Bungalow just behind the beach overlooking the Arabian Sea. The lighthouse and the railway behind provided frequent interest, with the driving school and part time cricket much in evidence on the playground just behind the hotel. We take a paddle in the Arabian Sea at 10.30hrs before bed. Very warm.

26.11.07 The next morning we visit the Kerala state coir works in Aluppey. This was an amazing experience with men operating looms as of 120 years ago in Oldham or Halifax. Women flicking different strands from each other with near drum sticks. There was one woman using a cycle wheel minus tyre in order to create balls of twine/string. Very practical and cheap! The piece de resistance was five people loading 125 kg rolls of coconut matting on to the heads of two bearers in one slick well rehearsed movement. The two bearers would then walk about 40 yards to load the roll onto the waiting lorry. Again a slick well practised movement. No fancy side loader or fork lift! Then there was a lady who was quite automatically and so quickly splicing string that one could not really detect how it was done. It was like watching a conjuror at close quarters. All were happy and smiling. Bought a child swing for £3.-

Then we went shopping. This was something else. Every where teemed with people, all very polite but thronged, verging on the
Claustrophobic, but no pickpockets. Traffic seems chaotic but has a method in its madness where all drivers require 180 deg. vision, as motor bikes and tuk tusk weave their relentless strands of direction. Then we came to a large shop for saris and shirts. There were 38 men on the men’s floor all desperate to claim a sale at an average price of about £6. per shirt, but you can’t make a proper comparison because costs and culture are so different. Blessed relief this shop had aircon. Despite an enormous purchase of 4 shirts, the eager assistants that all prices were fixed! All done with gleaming smiles. The Indian economy like the Chinese one is on the increase as they flex their erstwhile dormant muscles in the world economy. Then we are back to the Raheem Residency for lunch, after which the girls all go out for a pedicure and come back in auto rickshaws. I go off for a walk to the lighthouse and get waylaid by a tuk tuk driver anxious to talk to me about anything!

27.11.07 Visit a Jain Hindu temple, where you have to take your shoes off and go without taking a picture, and you are not allowed to enter the actual temple. The Jaine Hindus believe that not even a mosquito must be killed. This temple gets about 300 people ever morning and evening to pray. A tourist shop is visited on the way back with wooden boats and elephants carved in teak. Back to Raahem where we have an interesting discussion with an Irishman who has just sold his Nursing home in Co Wexford, and was now in Kerala for a complete medical overhaul. Teeth, eye bags, knee, and a few other items. I go for a walk towards Aluppey just as the kids are coming out of school and get surrounded by about 25 of them all demanding my name through their 10 year old grins.

28.11.07 Leave Aluppey for Cochin and arrive at the Maharajas Hill Palace just outside. It is quite hot here, about 35 deg C.
The last Maharaja died in 1964 and this place was built in 1895 and looks in very poor shape but the pictures and the jewlly are very interesting. Particularly so was the development of the malayalam alphabet over the centuries. In the afternoon James takes us to the Maticherry palace in Fort Cochin. Then on to the Jewish quarter and the Jewish synagogue where I am forbidden entry due to my shorts; very sexist. Other shop owners in the vicinity desperate for buyers. Pity.
Back to Koder House and drinks with Vicky Raj and Jose.

29.11.07 Six of us go with James to an elephant training camp by the lovely river Periyar. The elephants were shackled but they did a very neat job of eating their palm leaves and branches, by twisting with their trunks and standing on one end, if required. Return to Cochin where I set off single handed to buy a nappy bag for Char and Beatrice. As soon as I showed a reluctant interest, the vendor put his price up by 20%. He was pulled back into line. That evening we are invited out for drinks with the family of Jose, who is an IT and property consultant.

30.11.07 Early rise is required for 50 minute drive to Cochin airport and very elaborate check in. 4 hour flight to Dubai and then 90 minute stopover before 7 1/2 flight to Heathrow, where we are met by Tony who takes the 8 of us back to Suffolk.

Above all. great fun, very interesting, good company and being outside the monsoon season it did not rain!

In general terms several features in India were very powerful

TRAFFIC is dense, fast, crowded and relentless. Cool must be kept. No time for panic.

CHILDREN Very good on smiling and friendliness. Not shy.

BEGGING Very little.

TUMMY BUG Keep to bottled water, even for cleaning teeth. Do not eat from stalls, only cut fruit from good hotels.

WINE is expensive. BEER, Kingfisher is good and reasonable.

TUK TUKS are reasonable for getting around

BICYCLES are mostly ancient and awful.

ROAD SURFACE is generally prone to large pot holes.

WATER in Arabian Sea very warm, well over 30 deg C.

TAKE A DRIVER Public transport is not for the precious or squeamish.

DRINKING WATER Take sealed bottles.

FOOD Heavy to curried chicken. Beef not present.

We were met at Cochin airport by James our driver, who was with us for the whole of the holiday and took us every where in a minibus. The first 2 nights were spent at Koder House in Fort Cochin which was very spacious and luxurious and we were shown many of the sights in and around Cochin.
From Cochin we were taken to Munar and stayed at the Windermere Hotel, quite a contrast to Cochin in the Western Gatt hills and seeing the tea plantations and markets in Munar.Onwards to Paradisa resort, overlooking a tiger reserve. This is a really beautiful spot up in the hills. Next was a boat trip on Periyar Lake seeing lots of wildlife. Then on to the backwaters, staying at Punnamada Lake Resort and spending one night on a houseboat. Again, stunning scenery and seeing all the local peoples' way of life. From there we went to the coast at Alleppey and visited a Coir factory which was very interesting. From here we returned to Koder House for 2 nights and finally back to the airport.
The organisation of the holiday was excellent,hotels brilliant and sight seeing very well organised, so much so that we will be returning to this wonderful country.